Spring Wishlist — Pastels

Spring has sprung, and I couldn’t be happier. There’s something so carefree about being outside without a jacket, walking because it’s sunny and not because you have a scheduled obligation to hurry to, and seeing all the flowers come out of hiding. Spring is also a beautiful time for fashion, a chance to put away the coat and boots you’ve had to wear practically every day and warm up to complete style freedom. For me, this means light, cheerful pastel colors, soft flourishes, and nature-inspired motifs. Pantone’s designated Colors of the Year are Rose Quartz and Serenity, and there’s no better season to wear them!

Some people think pastel colors are okay in small doses, but they could never wear an outfit composed entirely of pastels. Yet I think head-to-toe pastel ensembles are the most fun, and it’s completely possible to dress this way without looking like the Easter Bunny. The trick is to balance your pinks with blues and to let your palest blush pieces segue into nudes and creams. Drawing from 400 boutiques around the world, Farfetch is my go-to place to find pieces that are sophisticated and stand out — the best combination for a tricky trend.

 

 

Outfit 1 Take 2                                         Outfit 2 Take 2

 

Look 1 — Spring Sophisticate       Look 2 — Pastel’s Wild Side

Dorothee Schumacher blouse; Marni macramé skirt;  Sophia Webster ballet flats;  Edie Parker Flavia clutch

Rochas top; Balmain skirt; N°21 sandals; Edie Parker Jean clutch

Outfit 3 Take 2              Outfit 4 Take 2

Look 3 — Super Sweet                             Look 4 — Mixed Prints

Ryan Lo top; P.A.R.O.S.H. skirt; Saint Laurent  Candy 80 sandals; Olympia Le-Tan My Melody clutch

Simone Rocha top; Carven skirt; Red Valentino slingbacks; Olympia Le- Tan birds book clutch

Outfit 5   Outfit 6

Look 5 — Rich Texture                        Look 6 — Lines that Pop

N 21 tank; J.W. Anderson jacket;  Twin-Set trousers; Salvatore Ferragamo  pumps;  Maison Michel Bibi Yoko hat; Burberry Nova Check bucket bag

Vivetta Mara shirt; Dorothee Schumacher trousers;  Chloe Gosselin Lobelia booties; Salvatore  Ferragamo Vara clutch

Outfit 7 Outfit 8 Take 3

Look 7 — Laid-Back Pretty               Look 8 — The Dark Side

Cédric Charlier camisole; Erika Cavallini Hana jacket; Ermanno Scervino shorts;  Dolce & Gabbana booties; Night Market necklace;  Olympia Le-Tan Alice Notebook clutch

Ermanno Scervino coat; Roberto Cavalli booties; Chanel vintage clip-on earrings; 3.1 Phillip Lim Pashli satchel

Outfit 9  Outfit 10 Take 2

Look 9 — Chic Ballerina                Look 10 — Dramatic Shape

Rochas ballerina print dress; Brunello Cucinelli cardigan; Dolce & Gabbana Vally slippers;  Céline vintage faux pearl bracelet; Tory Burch watercolor print clutch

Simone Rocha scuba dress; Giamba butterfly print stilettos; Marc by Marc Jacobs cabochon ring; Erika Cavallini brooch; Serpui clutch

Love This Brand — Laura Ciccarello Collection

Laura Ciccarello Logo

Laura Ciccarello has spent all of her life immersed in art and fashion. Growing up in Virginia with her brother and parents, her creativity was strongly encouraged. As a child she drew and painted constantly, and her family would often sit and draw together. Her obsession with gemstones was also fueled by her upbringing. Some of her favorite earliest memories are of digging through her mother’s jewelry box and wearing the jewelry – and not just for dress-up. “My mother said I could wear whatever I wanted,” she recalls, “and she had a collection of fine jewelry. So when I was in kindergarten, I wore chunky sparkly necklaces to school. I probably looked like a nut job, but I was happy.” She grew up to sell her oil paintings as a young teenager, win an international design competition by The Sak Company, complete pre-college at Pratt and college at FIT, design for multiple brands including Fernando Sanchez, provide fashion consulting services to major retailers, and found the company Red Lipstick Inc., under which she launched her eponymous brand Laura Ciccarello. Her creative origins continue to inspire the “glamorous yet organic” aesthetic of Laura Ciccarello Collection.

Laura Ciccarello Lookbook

Lookbook shot at a penthouse overlooking Central Park; model wearing Big Blingy Starry Night scarf

Laura Ciccarello Collection started with scarves, then extended to handbags. The product category Laura is most excited about right now is jewelry, which launched at the Accessories Circuit trade show just this fall. Every piece in her Metal Lace and Gemstone Jewelry collections is made of silver or gold, with the latter bearing evidence of her childhood gem fascination. She sees her jewelry as a bridge between costume and fine jewelry, two of her favorite things. Each piece is handmade in Manhattan’s Diamond District. Manufacturing close to home is challenging because the production landscape is dominated by ready-to-wear and it can be hard to find people who identify more with stones than cloth. “It would be cheaper to make the jewelry somewhere else,” Laura says, “but I like to do things the better way. New York is higher quality. Overseas uses ‘flash’ plating that wears off in two months and we use ‘heavy plating.’”.

 

Laura Ciccarello Lace 4      Laura Ciccarello Lace 6   Laura Ciccarello Lace 5    Laura Ciccarello Lace 3

Silver lace filigree ring, $93; La Ventana silver lace ring, $180; La Ventana gold lace ring, $180; Gold lace filigree ring, $93

Laura’s design process is serendipitous but clearly effective. “The process of creating a collection starts with me going out all the time and getting a lot of random ideas from what I see. The idea starts out with a sketch, and then I do more sketches, maybe change a few things, before doing the painting. Then I infuse photos I take with Photoshop and start to digitally print the fabric.” This process caters to our ever more technology-focused world with fabulous and luxurious results. With names like Queen of Everything and Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends, the five scarf collections are full of motif surprises. These include Marilyn MonroeKarl Lagerfeld, and even handcuffs, which have a subliminal feel when infused over her colorful abstract paintings.

Laura Ciccarello Tied Up and Painted    Laura Ciccarello Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends    Laura Ciccarello Karate Karl 2

Tied Up and Painted handbag; Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends scarf; Karate Karl handbag

“My perfect situation would be designing all day and making thousands of SKUs,” Laura says, “but that’s not the reality.” As a business owner, Laura spends much of her time on manufacturing and logistics in addition to design. When designing a collection, she chooses the best thirty or forty ideas to produce. The scarves and bags are manufactured in India and China, but Laura is seeing an industry shift to South American manufacturing, thanks to the Trans-Pacific Partnership and a growing workforce that is becoming more educated in patternmaking and manufacturing. Fashion has a reputation as one of the world’s fastest-moving industries, where everyone discusses Fall when it’s spring outside and work on a collection must begin a full year in advance. This is not an issue for Laura. “I am hyper-decisive,” she says, “so I take less time than average to complete a collection. I always like to be ahead of the curve, so I exceed my deadlines.”

Laura Ciccarello Rock Royalty     Laura Ciccarello Stone Roses

Crowned Royal scarf; Stone Roses scarf

In a volatile industry where a large number of brands are selling similar products to similar markets, Laura Ciccarello Collection stands out. “Individuality is the biggest trend that no one’s talking about. The woman wearing my clothes values individuality above all else. She wants something bold, something beautiful, not just trendy,” Laura says. “It’s about standing out, doing something different, and having a quality product. This matters more than artificial marketing and grey-area-press. Press and marketing are making major changes right now. The reality few are talking about is you don’t sell from publications anymore, you sell to people.”

Laura Ciccarello 3

Laura herself wearing the Kryptonite scarf

Laura Ciccarello Collection has received attention from many high-profile sources, like Neiman Marcus and Miss Universe. Laura tells me that her PR success comes from networking. “I like to go out, go to events, go to parties, and I meet so many people,” she says. “You need to be out and present. I have seen people pass up big opportunities because they stayed at home all the time. Home is a very comfortable place, but as a designer you’ve got to put yourself out there.” But she is quick to note that networking comes with a caveat. “My favorite show is VH1’s Behind the Music,” she tells me. “I don’t go crazy like the celebrities in Behind the Music. I have fun but I keep my priorities straight. I always want to be 100 percent on point. If I were swinging from a chandelier, I would be sending a business email from my phone with the other hand.” That might be the best advice I’ve ever heard.

Laura Ciccarello 4    Laura Ciccarello 2

Laura at a studio wearing the Fool’s Gold scarf and handbag; a chandelier from Laura’s Instagram

Laura Ciccarello Collection has a website and a presence on Facebook and Instagram, but Laura’s ambitions for the brand center around wholesale. As someone with extensive experience designing for department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, and The Home Shopping Network, pitching her own brand to high-end retail is a natural progression. She is excited about expanding into a new product category and “going outside my design comfort zone.” Can’t wait to see the results!

Laura Ciccarello Malificent   Laura Ciccarello Big Blingy Starry Night    Laura Ciccarello Queen of the Aztec

Malificent handbag; Big Blingy Starry Night handbag; Queen of the Aztec handbag

 

 

Outfit of the Day — Say Goodbye

Apt. 9

Aqua Blues top. Divided by H&M skirt. Apt. 9 scarf. Stupa purse. 

Today is the day my parents and younger sister said farewell to their Christmas tree. My parents work all day and my sister is a full-time student, so naturally the tree was decorated on December 24. That’s why, though Christmas came and went, my family wanted to hold on to this tree for as long as they could. Today I post to commemorate its beauty and spirit.

The Christmas colors are red and green, and between the two I prefer red. Red velvet makes me think of bows, gifts, wreaths, and holiday parties; in deep burgundy, a velvet top errs on the more sophisticated party side. This top, which was my mother’s, can be tricky to wear. At first it comes across as formal, but its dramatic wrap shape exposes the midriff. My solution is to wear it with a high-waisted skirt, short or long. This flouncy floral skirt continues where the shirt’s volume left off, creating a bell shape.

Tarina Tarantino

Brette Connolly hat. Tarina Tarantino ring. 

My favorite part of the outfit is the hat because I made it myself. When I was 15 I saw a chic selection of newsboy hats for the winter at Nordstrom, and instead of buying one I decided to sew one. Herringbone tends to have a serious look to it, especially on a traditionally masculine shape. To counter this effect, I chose a pink fabric. I have always loved Barbie dolls, but these days I play with Barbie jewelry. I think of Barbie as a renaissance woman who got everything done and bought everything she wanted, and always looked put together doing it.

Claire's

Claire’s earrings

I don’t think one can ever be too old to wear snowman earrings. I bought these last year for Ugly Sweater Day at Nordstrom. Of course the plan was to buy a Christmas sweater, but I couldn’t seem to find any. Instead, I opted for accessories: snowman earrings, a reindeer antlers headband, a bracelet watch with Christmas charms, festive brooches, and crazy Santa Claus glasses. The headband and glasses are long gone, but these earrings are cute enough to wear annually.

INC 2       INC

INC shoes

Burgundy shoes tie the outfit together. Ankle boots stay on easier, but the bold cutouts bridge the gap between boot and pump.

MORE VELVET TOPS

Topshop 3          Roberto Cavalli           American Retro

Topshop, $60                    Roberto Cavalli, $60            American Retro, $200 

Carmen Marc Valvo   Rick Owens 2         

Carmen Marc Valvo, $295       Rick Owens, $725           Thierry Mugler, $1,200

MORE FLORAL SKIRTS

Chicwish   Diesel 2     Moschino Cheap and Chic

Chicwish, $36                       Diesel, $82               Moschino Cheap and Chic, $169

Alice and Olivia Marni    Lanvin

Alice + Olivia, $290                      Marni, $740                       Lanvin, $1,100

MORE BURGUNDY HEELS

Wet Seal    Charles by Charles David         Seychelles

Wet Seal, $23                  Charles by Charles David, $99       Seychelles, $130 

Marni 2  Manolo Blahnik        Dolce & Gabbana 3

Marni, $400                   Manolo Blahnik, $635                     Dolce & Gabbana, $1,020

MORE NEWSBOY HATS

Adora  August Hats       Nine West 2

Adora, $8                            August Hats, $15                                   Nine West, $17

Luxury Divas        Hattie Carnegie

Luxury Divas, $19                       FFR, $90                              Hattie Carnegie, $325

MORE INFINITY SCARVES

Charlotte Russe  Three Dots     Eileen Fisher

Charlotte Russe, $17                  Three Dots, $73                      Eileen Fisher, $178

Tory Burch 3  Pologeorgis      Brunello Cucinelli

Tory Burch, $445                     Pologeorgis, $695             Brunello Cucinelli, $1,805

Style Icon — Ellie Goulding

Ellie Goulding 9

My own introduction to Ellie Goulding came through Forever 21. I worked at the exciting (read: chaotic) store for nearly two years, and grew to love its soundtrack of Eighties music, obscure remixes, and trendy new artists. In 2011 Ellie Goulding was one such trendy new artist, and I fell so in love with her ethereal voice and intriguing folktronica that I didn’t mind hearing “Lights” basically every day. Three years later, Ellie Goulding is more than just still relevant – she’s at the top of her game. With a new pop album that caters to a more mainstream audience, she is topping the charts and being photographed everywhere. Yet despite the constant attention, no one seems to catch Ellie Goulding on an off day. Her style ranges from grunge to chic to sexy, and she owns it. Defending the sexy element, she once said, “My management would never force me to do anything, because they know I’m strong-minded. I’ve never been an artist to say ‘Okay, I’ll wear that’, or ‘I’ll wear less’. I just don’t want to not make the most of my body.” As a wearer of short skirts and dresses myself, I find it insulting that any reporter would think wearing them is more likely to be a business decision than a personal one. But Goulding handled it with grace. Here are some of her best looks:

Ellie Goulding 3    Ellie Goulding 7

                                   At the Brit Awards (Elle)             (Daily Mail)

Ellie Goulding 5   Ellie Goulding 8

                     In London (Daily Mail)      At BBC Radio 1 Studios (stealthelook.com.br)

Ellie Goulding 4  Ellie Goulding 2

Rihanna for River Island sweatshirt, Coincidence and Chance shorts (Teen Vogue)                                                         In Verona, Italy. Christian Louboutin boots (Daily Mail)

Ellie Goulding 6   Ellie Goulding

At BBC Radio 1 Studios. Avelon jeans (Daily Mail)       (elsiedelilah.com)

Seen on the Runway — Purple

Purple Painting

You might think it’s winter (or summer, depending on where you live), but in the fashion world it’s Pre-Fall. Gone are the days when the majority of designers created only two collections per year, and this week the Pre-Fall shows are here to present the new products that will come to stores in May, June, and July. There were many trends to be seen across the runways, but perhaps the most striking was the explosion of purple. From lilac to fuchsia to plum to wine, this vivid color was everywhere.

I love purple. However, I don’t have that many purple clothing items. It’s not because I avoid the color, but because it is generally underrepresented in the fashion world. If you set out to find purple, you’ll find it. But if you just wander into a store or browse a website, it’s likely you won’t end up buying anything purple because the landscape is dominated by other colors. I had always sensed this, but I also confirmed it systematically. After looking through the first 300 clothing items listed on the brand-diverse polyvore.com, I found that only 3 percent of the items were purple. 79 percent of the new clothes listed were either black, blue, white, or grey.

There is a theory that people tend to form opinions about color based on the objects of that color that they see. Because we see so many different things every day, this process feels subconscious. Purple is a beautiful color, but we don’t really see much of it while out and about. Because of this, the color has developed connotations of fantasy, playfulness, and dream states. Unfortunately, it can also be associated with artificiality.

But come on, a purple coat isn’t like a purple Christmas tree! Fashion appeals more to the emotions than practicality, and the task of a great designer is to create a wearable fantasy. After all, a fantasy is a fantasy before it happens, and as it happens.

Fendi Pre-Fall 2016
Fendi Pre-Fall 2016

Neutral brown accents make this lilac coat even more vibrant.

Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2016
Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2016

Navy, persimmon, and wine flow smoothly when united by lace.

Escada Pre-Fall 2016
Escada Pre-Fall 2016

A short coat and sweeping skirt stand out in violet.

Monique Lhuillier Pre-Fall 2016
Monique Lhuillier Pre-Fall 2016

As the backdrop of myriad tiny flowers, the magenta of this skirt is quite delicate.

Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2016
Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2016

Lavender panels look sophisticated on this sleek column dress.

Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2016
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2016

The brightness of fuchsia brings attention to every pleat of this sweeping gown.

Temperley London 4

Temperley London

This dramatic fuchsia dress looks lit from within.

Red Valentino Pre-Fall 2016
Red Valentino Pre-Fall 2016

Plum goes folk with dainty ruffles and bird motifs.

Rebecca Taylor Floral Silk and Lace Camisole Dress
Rebecca Taylor Floral Silk and Lace Camisole Dress

An eggplant floral is subdued and romantic.

Zac Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2016
Zac Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2016

Three gorgeous purple hues give a conservative look new life.

Credits:

Fendi photo — Giovanna Pavesi;       Painting — fineartamerica.com;      All other photos courtesy of  respective brands.

Fashion Week Newcomers

Rosario Dawson

For a luxury clothing brand, showing at a major Fashion Week is the ultimate mark of prestige. Below are six lines that made their New York Fashion Week debuts this fall.

Monse Try Again 3    Monse Try Again   Monse Try Again 2

Monse

Monse was started by two prominent people from the Oscar de la Renta team: studio director Laura Kim and principal designer Feranando Garcia.

Phelan Try Again 2    Phelan Try Again

 Phelan

Phelan is a progressive line founded by Amanda Phelan, who was inspired by light, shadow, and memory. A performance by contemporary dance company Vim Vigor kicked off the show.

Studio 189

Studio 189 was founded by Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah and is headquartered in Ghana. The concept behind the line is to “champion African and African-inspired content through an artisan-produced collection.”

 

Rosario Dawson     Designer Abrima Erwiah

Brandon Maxwell Try Again    Brandon Maxwell Try Again 3   Brandon Maxwell Try Again 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brandon Maxwell

Founder Brandon Maxwell is a celebrity stylist, known especially for styling Lady Gaga’s classic, understated look of late. Despite Maxwell’s lack of design training, the line was superbly cut and constructed.

Cadet Try Again    Cadet Try Again 3    Cadet Try Again 2

      Cadet

Designers Raul Arevalo and Brad Schmidt were finalists of the 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition. They presented two menswear collections last year before making their womenswear debut this season.

Clear by Kai Milla Try Again 3    Clear by Kai Milla Try Again 2   Clear by Kai Milla Try Again

Clear by Kai Milla

Designer Kai Milla presented an eponymous collection in 2010. This season Milla debuted a new line, Clear.

Credits:

Bringheli, Lorenzo — Rosario Dawson photo

Chinsee, George — Monse photos

Eichner, Steve — Studio 189 photos

Giannoni, Giovanni — Cadet photos

Iannaccone — Clear by Kai Milla photos, Phelan photos

Mitra, Robert — Brandon Maxwell photos

If I Could Buy the Entire Collection, I Would — Kate Spade

Kate Spade 21

With so many designers out there, it might seem unfair to pick one favorite. Sometimes the act of selecting a favorite can cast shadow on everything that isn’t the favorite, as if creating a stark contrast between what you like and what you don’t. Yet as anyone who has ever been asked what their favorite food is can attest, playing favorites is simply a part of human nature. So when I say that Kate Spade was my favorite collection from New York Fashion Week, I don’t mean that I disliked the other brands or that their shows had no merit. I just want to celebrate the Kate Spade aesthetic as a look I deeply identify with. The color palette (black, white, red), flowers, girly emphasis on dresses and skirts, and whimsical accessories made me very happy. Every brand has an ideal customer, and let’s just say the Kate Spade Girl and I would get along very well.

Kate Spade Try Again 7    Kate Spade Try Again 6    Kate Spade Try Again 8

Kate Spade Try Again 2   Kate Spade Try Again 5   Kate Spade Try Again 4

Kate Spade Try Again 3  Kate Spade Try Again 10   Kate Spade Try Again 9   Kate Spade Try Again

Of all the fashion categories, the handbag is my favorite because it allows the most freedom to be adventurous. Anything goes with handbags, and the right handbag is all it takes to make a safe outfit cool and interesting. Kate Spade’s focus on accessories is precisely why I have followed the brand for years.

Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016

 

 

 

 

 

 

WWD Credits: Full look photos by George Chinsee

Top photo: whatshaute.com

New York Fashion Week — September 10, 2015

Fashion Week goes by so fast! With 188 different collections and about 20-60 looks per show, there is so much to digest in a mere ten-day period. If you’re in college, think of it this way; on the busiest days, like Friday and Saturday, it was logistically possible to attend twelve shows in a single day. That’s about the same time commitment as six class sessions. Of course Fashion Week is not like a day of classes in any other respect, and few things thrill me more than photos from the latest shows popping up online at every minute. It’s just a lot to process in real time. Even so, I intend to continue to break down the Spring 2016 flurry by the daily unit, to ensure that I cover a diverse spectrum of lines and do them justice.

      

     

NYFW Street Style

September 10 was a day of many things, especially prints. As anyone who is old enough knows, Miranda Priestly would not be impressed by florals for spring. That is precisely why I think she would admire this particular spring for its geometry, color blocking, and renegade abstract fervor. Below are my favorite prints from Thursday, large and small, floral and otherwise.

JSong RTW Spring 2016
JSong RTW Spring 2016

A playful yet elaborate line drawing of Manhattan brings a character and a narrative to this otherwise simple dress. I’m already imagining what neighborhood the model will go to first and what crazy events will transpire when she gets there.

Ohne Title RTW Spring 2016
Ohne Titel RTW Spring 2016

The bright orange contrast, broad line widths, intricacy of the line composition, and sweeping swaths of background white set this chevron print apart.

Gant RTW Spring 2016
Gant RTW Spring 2016

No spring is complete without its blossoms. These spare, stark flowers have the gracefulness of an ink drawing.

Kempner RTW Spring 2016
Kempner RTW Spring 2016

Monochromatic color blocking is bold but a little expected. When the stripes flip sideways and zigzag furiously into compression, the effect is dizzying and captivating.

Desigual RTW Spring 2016
Desigual RTW Spring 2016

My favorite print of all! Peacocks and other lively creatures dance across what would otherwise be a basic, dare I say preppy, stripe, creating a new narrative with the vibrance and ambiguity of an abstract painting. If ever you hear someone say fashion isn’t art the way painting or music is, show them this dress.

Erin Fetherston RTW Spring 2016
Erin Fetherston RTW Spring 2016

This crochet print is geometric, no doubt, but without the harsh angles associated with the word. With a calming pale backdrop and thin, unassuming stripes, it gives the impression of a very tranquil sea.

Tess Giberson RTW Spring 2016

Tess Giberson

The distinctions are so muted that at first glance one might not even call this a print. Yet when one looks closely the rounded, artfully layered shapes emerge, like wispy clouds drifting through a twilight sky.

Model on the catwalk
Model on the catwalk

Pyer Moss

This collection centered decisively on American police brutality, using the abrasiveness of neck bands and seat belt hardware to capture an unforgiving society where every individual has to fend for him- or herself and the very people we are told will help us can turn and end our lives with nothing more than a feeble excuse. This print may be small, but its many bright colors and clustering at the top of the coat give it power.

Yuna Yang RTW Spring 2016

Yuna Yang

Large pink satin flowers are girlishly exuberant, yet kept grounded by a black backdrop.

Ulla Johnson RTW Spring 2016

Ulla Johnson

Far more beguiling than a bald-faced polka dot, this conversational print of tiny hearts complements the yoke neck and ruffled skirt.

WWD Credits: 

Street style photos, Liz Devine. Runway photos, Courtesy Photo. 

New York Fashion Week — September 9, 2015

Sarah Sophie Flicker and Debbie Harry at the Rachel Comey presentation in Red Hook, Brooklyn

Most everyone has a creative side, whether they are in a creative profession or not. I consider fashion buying a creative profession to some degree, but when I was in high school I engaged in the more obviously creative activities of sketching and sewing. My former boss was an investment banker and a commercial real estate broker before becoming a clothing designer. A family friend teaches calculus and physics and has released a series of studio albums as a singer and songwriter.

Brette Coat

A coat that I designed and sewed when I was 15

Even if we are all creative, it is not always understood where this creativity comes from. It’s tempting to say it simply “comes to you”, as if out of nowhere. Based on all of the poetry I have written while caffeinated, I think creativity is a product of an active, passionate state of mind. Yet sometimes we don’t give our environment enough credit. My final theory is that creativity comes from the convergence of an active and passionate mind and the right external stimulus, although remembering the exact source of our inspiration can be difficult considering all of the environmental stimuli we are exposed to at every minute.

Stimulation

The talented designers of New York Fashion Week tend to identify exactly where the inspiration for a given season’s collection came from, a degree of recollection that is an art form in itself. Below are some lines from Wednesday and their creative origins.

Big Sur

See By Chloé RTW Spring 2016

See by Chloé

Clare Waight Keller was inspired by Big Sur, California.

Yes Rasta

TSE RTW Spring 2016

TSE

Tina Lutz was inspired by Jamaica and dancehall culture, specifically the books “Dancehall: The Story of Jamaican Dancehall Culture” by Beth Lesser and “Yes Rasta” by Patrick Cariou (pictured above). 

Peter Beard Iman

Tamara Mellon RTW Spring 2016
Tamara Mellon RTW Spring 2016

Tamara Mellon was inspired by the concept of a tribal, gypsy warrior woman; Peter Beard photography (his photo of Iman pictured above); African carved wood sculptures; and Maasai craftsmanship.

The Circus

M Missoni RTW Spring 2016
M Missoni RTW Spring 2016

Angela Missoni was inspired by the circus.

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 01: Sunset over Manhattan on Day Eight of the 2014 US Open at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center on September 1, 2014 in the Flushing neighborhood of the Queens borough of New York City. (Photo by Julian Finney/Getty Images)

Hellessy RTW Spring 2016
Hellessy RTW Spring 2016

Sylvie Millstein was inspired by the view of the sunset from a city rooftop.
Robert Irwin

Lisa Perry New York RTW Spring Summer 2016 September 2015
Lisa Perry New York RTW Spring Summer 2016 September 2015

      Lisa Perry was inspired by the Robert Irwin installation “Who’s Afraid of Red, Yellow, and Blue?”

Haute Couture

Model
Model

À Moi

Alejandra Alonso Rojas was inspired by “the elevated sartorial traditions of the past” (Allende). Charles Worth haute couture gowns from the nineteenth century shown above.

Matisse

Model
Model

O’2nd

Minsoo Chung was inspired by the colors used by Gary Hume, the cut-outs of Henri Matisse (pictured above), and the shibori prints of Korea.

Warm 2

Warm RTW Spring 2016

Warm

Tracy Feith was inspired by his old line and Warm, the Nolita boutique for whom he designs. This meant giving beachy clothing a new sophistication.

Judith Plant

Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey was inspired by “the degradation of fabrics” and the essay “The Circle Is Gathering” by Judith Plant, pictured above (Garced).

Happy NYFW!

Photo Credits:

(Sarah Sophie Flicker and Debbie Harry) — Steve Eichner    (Designer presentations) — WWD Courtesy Photo

(blurry lights) — allposters.com   (Big Sur) — bigsurcalifornia.com      (Yes Rasta) — betweenthebooks.com

(Peter Beard photography) — fashiontrendsdaily.com    (circus) — ian-darragh.com   (sunset) — huffingtonpost.com

(Irwin installation) — pacegallery.com    (Charles Worth gowns) — thefashionhistorian.com

(Matisse cut-outs) — interiordesign.net    (Warm boutique) — whatwelikenyc.com    (Judith Plant) — innserendipity.com