Bring Fashion Week to Work

nyfw-calendar-2

New York Fashion Week kicked off yesterday and the shows are in full swing. Zac Posen has often said that Fashion Week is “fashion-tainment”. He started saying that several years ago. Runway shows these days cater as much to consumers as they do to the press. Brands like Tom Ford and Burberry are transitioning from the traditional fashion calendar (you know, show fall clothes in spring and spring clothes in fall) to a “see now, buy now” schedule in which season-appropriate collections hit stores days after the show. Brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Givenchy have given consumers the opportunity to purchase tickets to their shows. Many shows are live-streamed to internet users worldwide. Yet the most obvious and practical consequence of prioritizing the consumer can be seen in the designs themselves. Fashion Week will always have strange cutouts and counterintuitive layering, but more often than not the runway looks are perfectly wearable in day-to-day life. Even at work.

Yes, designers are  sending office-appropriate outfits down the runway. But these are not your average pantsuits. Here are 10 brands that present professional attire at its very best.

runway-to-office-tse-6

TSE — This monochrome white outfit is sharp as can be, with an eyecatching button in compliance with every dress code.

Adeam RTW Spring 2017
Adeam

A white button-down always works. The sophisticated color palette and conservative shape make these dress pants desk-ready.

Camilla and Marc RTW Spring 2017

CAMILLA AND MARC — Godet pleats and raised seams set this classic black dress apart.

Escada RTW Spring 2017
Escada

A cowl neck and skinny sash add definition to a conservative white dress.

M Missoni RTW Spring 2017
M Missoni

With geometric pops of color, this coat will make the outfit. Just add pants!

Kendall + Kylie RTW Spring 2017
Kendall + Kylie

It’s hard to go wrong with a matching top and skirt, and the peplum and trumpet flares dress them up. Pull up the shoulders and you have a chic boat neck.

Jeffrey Dodd RTW Spring 2017
Jeffrey Dodd

A white button-down with a black pencil skirt will be welcome at any workplace. Button up the top and you’re good to go.

Kobi Halperin RTW Spring 2017
Kobi Halperin

This might seem like just another black dress at first, but with a closer look, the Swiss dots bring it to life.

Christina Economou RTW Spring 2017
Christina Economou

A high-necked shell and dress pants, with a kick.

Rejina Pyo RTW Spring 2017
Rejina Pyo

A pale blue button-down is a refreshing substitute for white. The paper bag waist takes these black trousers to another level.

Photo credits: wwd.com

A Year in Creative Directors

Bold Fashion Exit

Published on Bold (bold.global) on August 16, 2016. 

Starting with Donna Karan leaving DKNY in June 2015, and most recently with Raf Simons joining Calvin Klein, there has been an incredible amount of turnover of creative directors in high-end fashion. In many ways this is a response to trouble in the luxury sector. As new leadership tries to solve these problems, the industry is being remade in the process. Let’s take a look back.

June 2015 – Donna Karan Leaves Donna Karan International

 

 

Donna Karan stepped down as chief designer of Donna Karan International to focus more on her Urban Zen brand, a line of seasonless basics, jewelry, accessories, and home décor handmade by artisans in Haiti, Thailand, and Bali. Following her departure, DKI discontinued the Donna Karan Collection, DKNY C, and DKNY Jeans lines in favor of a stronger DKNY brand with a broader range of price points.

July 2015 – Alexander Wang Leaves Balenciaga

 

 

Alexander Wang left his role as creative director of Balenciaga after three years at the post. The move was a “joint decision”; Wang wanted to devote his focus on his namesake brand and bring on a new investor, and Balenciaga sales growth under Wang had been slower than that of similar brands.

October 2015 – Raf Simons Leaves Dior

 

 

Raf Simons, the artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories collections, left Dior after a three-and-a-half-year tenure. His decision had several components, including a chance to work more on his namesake menswear brand, the desire for a personal life in balance with his work life, a sense that Dior’s advertising image did not closely reflect his collections, and slowing retail sales.

Alber Elbaz Leaves Lanvin

 

 

Alber Elbaz left Lanvin after fourteen years as creative director, based on “the decision of the company’s majority shareholder”. The majority shareholder, publishing magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, had been the one to recruit Elbaz all those years ago. Yet last year they found themselves at odds over whether Lanvin should increase direct retail investment (Elbaz yes, Wang no), whether Lanvin should increase handbags investment (Elbaz yes, Wang no), and whether Wang should sell her shares to someone who might better develop the brand (Elbaz yes, Wang no). Elbaz departed with a letter of thanks, concluding with “I wish the house of Lanvin the future it deserves among the best French luxury brands” and signing with a heart.

Demna Gvasalia Joins Balenciaga

 

 

Demna Gvasalia, the cofounder and creative director of new streetwear label Vetements, was chosen to replace Alexander Wang as artistic director of Balenciaga. CEO Isabelle Guichot saw the renegade spirit of the brand’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, in Gvasalia, a designer best known for marketing a plain t-shirt with the DHL logo and staging runway shows in a sex club and a Chinese restaurant. She also said that he would “definitely not” turn Balenciaga into a streetwear brand.

February 2016 – Stefano Pilati Leaves Ermenegildo Zegna

 

 

Stefano Pilati stepped down as the head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, stating only “I now wish to focus on other projects that I had put aside in order to achieve our common goals with Zegna Couture.” Founder Gildo Zegna praised the designer for making Ermenegildo Zegna “a show not to be missed in Milan”.

Alessandro Sartori Joins Ermenegildo Zegna

 

 

Alessandro Sartori was chosen to fill the new position of artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, a role with responsibility across all Zegna brands and creative functions. Sartori started a ready-to-wear division at Berluti and raised the brand’s revenue from €30 million in 2011, when he joined the company, up to €100 million. Yet before that, he spent eight years as the creative director of Z Zegna, the Ermenegildo Zegna diffusion line.

March 2016 – Hedi Slimane Leaves Saint Laurent

 

 

During his nearly four years as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane revolutionized the brand. For one thing, its name was changed to “Saint Laurent” under his leadership. This move, ostensibly a mere replacement of “Saint Laurent Rive Gauche” for the ready-to-wear division, left many taken aback. For another thing, revenue rose from $385 million to $1.05 billion under Slimane’s tenure. The reasons for his departure are unknown, only that he and Kering failed to reach an agreement over his long-term contract. Many were left wondering how Saint Laurent, having become so transformed under Slimane, would move forward. Said Business of Fashion editor Tim Blanks, “I don’t think whoever goes into Saint Laurent will pick up where he left off…I think Hedi Slimane is such an obsessive, and I don’t think there are many other people with that degree of obsession.”

Ennio and Carlo Capasa Leave Costume National

 

 

The brothers who founded Costume National in 1986, Ennio and Carlo Capasa, departed at the same time. The brand, owned by investment bank Sequedge, had seen slow sales since November 2014, when the lower-priced C’N’C line was discontinued. It was with great sadness that the two left. Creative director Ennio said, “I was hoping this would not happen. I fought with passion…People say fashion is over, that marketing wins and that everything is an illusion. Definitely not for me.”

Justin O’Shea Joins Brioni

 

 

Justin O’Shea, the global fashion director of multi-brand ecommerce hub MyTheresa, was appointed creative director of Brioni following the departure of Brendan Mullane. Though O’Shea’s background was in buying and not design, he was seen as a promising creative director for his potential to create a strong image for Brioni across all of their channels. O’Shea is known for his sharp-edged, heavily tattooed appearance, and he started to move the traditional suiting brand in a rock direction by casting Metallica in his first ad campaign.

Bouchra Jarrar Joins Lanvin

 

 

Bouchra Jarrar, whose couture background includes Christian Lacroix and her own namesake label, was chosen as the new artistic director of women’s collections at Lanvin. Her position differs from that of Alber Elbaz in that she will focus only on womenswear. Jarrar, who has likened herself to founder Jeanne Lanvin, described her target customer as “Très real. The Lanvin woman has a real life,” and said she aims to “bring to Lanvin the harmony and consistency of a fashion designed for women, a fashion of our time.”

April 2016 – Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli Leave Calvin Klein Collection

 

 

Francisco Costa, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection women’s, and Italo Zucchelli, creative director of men’s, stepped down, becoming the last to occupy those positions. “Collection is not a money maker,” said former CEO Tom Murry. “It’s a marketing expense and we generate an incredible amount of editorial that is based on being in that business.” Going forward, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Collection, ck Calvin Klein, and Calvin Klein Jeans would be managed by one creative director with one Calvin Klein vision.

Anthony Vaccarello Joins Saint Laurent

 

 

Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of both a namesake line and Versus Versace, withdrew from both brands completely to become creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. The name Saint Laurent, associated with Hedi Slimane’s tenure as creative director, was to stay. Yet in terms of imagery, the brand started with a clean slate. All photos from Slimane’s time were removed from Instagram, and in the interim before his first collection, Vaccarello released an ad campaign with no clothing at all.

May 2016 – Alessandra Facchinetti Leaves Tod’s

 

 

Creative director Alessandra Facchinetti left Tod’s after three years, saying only that she would “focus on other projects…put aside in order to be able to achieve Tod’s’ strategies.” A relatively short tenure was something she had in common with Alexander Wang, Raf Simons, and Hedi Slimane.

Danielle Sherman Leaves Edun

 

 

Danielle Sherman stepped down as creative director of Edun, also after three years. She was known for giving a high-fashion image to the socially conscious, artisanal brand founded by Bono and Ali Hewson.

Jonathan Saunders Joins Diane von Furstenberg

 

 

Jonathan Saunders closed his namesake brand and joined Diane von Furstenberg as chief creative officer. Diane von Furstenberg herself said, “I could not have found a cooler, more intelligent designer and I cannot wait to watch him shine as our chief creative officer”. Von Furstenberg did not retire, but Saunders’ appointment would give her more time for philanthropy and mentorship, especially as chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

June 2016 – Hedi Slimane Sues Kering

 

 

And the plot thickens. Three months after his exit from Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane sued the brand’s parent company, Kering, over the terms of his contract. Kering had removed the non-competition clause, meaning that Slimane could continue to design anything he wanted. However, Slimane wanted to have the non-competition obligation, and the financial compensation it would entail, reinstated.

July 2016 – Peter Copping Leaves Oscar de la Renta

 

 

Peter Copping left his position as creative director of Oscar de la Renta after less than two years at the company, stating that “personal circumstances require me to return to Europe.”

Haider Ackermann Joins Berluti

 

 

Haider Ackermann, who has his own line, was hired to replace Alessandro Sartori after Sartori replaced Stefano Pilati at Ermenegildo Zegna.

Maria Grazia Chiuri Joins Dior

 

 

Maria Grazia Chiuri, co-creative director of Valentino alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli, left the brand to become artistic director of Dior, the first female to hold that position. Chiuri and Piccioli were very successful in reinvigorating Valentino, expanding the accessories business and increasing profits. But Dior has a greater scale, with €5 billion in revenue last year to Valentino’s €256 million.

LVMH Sells Donna Karan International

 

 

A year after Donna Karan’s departure, Donna Karan International experienced another seismic change. LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton, the parent company of DKI and some 70 other brands, sold the brand to G-III Apparel Group, a manufacturing and licensing company. The sale was initiated by G-III, who offered a valuation of $650 million – much higher than the $243 million LVMH had spent to purchase the brand from Donna Karan in 2001. “We had moved the pieces in the right direction and I think we were starting to move forward,” said LVMH fashion group CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel, “But [G-III] came with a very high price.” Still, Roussel genuinely feels that DKNY will be better off with G-III. In LVMH’s portfolio of luxury and contemporary brands, DKNY stuck out as a diffusion brand that required a different business model, one of wide wholesale reach as opposed to selective distribution and an emphasis on runway and editorial.

August 2016 – Raf Simons Joins Calvin Klein

 

 

Raf Simons joined Calvin Klein as chief creative officer. Simons’ minimalist aesthetic aligns with the Calvin Klein look, but his move is a bit surprising considering how he had spoken about the pressure placed on him at Dior and his desire for a better work-life balance. Regarding his position at Calvin Klein, Simons said, “Technically speaking, it works. Does it work for me emotionally? No, because I’m not the kind of person who likes to do things so fast.” Nevertheless, he is up to the challenge, conceding that spending more time on something does not always make it better. “Sometimes you can work things to death when you take too much time,” he said.

This frequent movement of creative directors is a sign of change across the luxury fashion sector. The omnipresence of social media, especially Instagram and Snapchat, demands that more news be shared at a faster rate to attract the same amount of attention. This has made staging new runway shows with eye-catching set design ever more important, fueling the need for more collections per year (pre-fall, fall, fall couture, men’s spring, spring, spring couture, resort, men’s fall…) The creative director cannot be simply a designer of garments, but a creator of a distinctive brand image, one that must constantly be maintained, and some, like Raf Simons and Ennio Capasa, seem to have caved under this pressure. As Simons has said, “Fashion became pop. I can’t make up my mind if that’s a good or a bad thing. The only thing I know is that it used to be elitist. And I don’t know if one should be ashamed or not to admit that maybe it was nicer when it was more elitist, not for everybody.” When brand building relies on visual stunts for Instagram, people like Demna Gvasalia and Justin O’Shea become the ideal type of creative director. Vetements always had superbly constructed clothing, like their handcrafted jeans made from reconstructed vintage pairs, but it was the satirical collections that put the brand on the map. Justin O’Shea has no formal design training, but he clearly has a strong visual instinct and has become a street style star on Instagram with 79,000 followers.

Another issue is that when many brands are controlled by one conglomerate, like LVMH or Kering, each brand is expected to be able to prove itself as a financial asset relative to the others. Donna Karan has said “I’m married to my company,” but LVMH is not married to DKNY. Alber Elbaz may have been an iconic designer, he may have been most responsible for making Lanvin the exquisite brand that it is today, but he was not the one who owned Lanvin. And of course in the financial world, it is not enough to be consistent – a brand must grow. Sustained growth as a luxury brand has become difficult in our time. Shoppers can easily look online and find the lowest prices available for a brand, and then wait for them to go lower. Many people choose to spend on experiences, from vacations to more restaurants, over fashion or any other material goods. The movement of creative directors, which has often been compared to a game of musical chairs, gives the signal that a brand is trying to update and improve.

The standard contract for a creative director is three years, and clearly these contracts are not always renewed. What this means is that a brand is not defined by its creative director; creative director is becoming more like just a job. Nicolas Ghesquière was the creative director of Balenciaga for 15 years. John Galliano was the creative director of Dior for 14 years. Tom Ford was the creative director of Gucci for 10 years, Frida Giannini for 9. Stefano Pilati was the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent for 8 years. And of course Alber Elbaz was the creative director of Lanvin for 14 years. Relationships like these are becoming few and far between, with brands less attached to a specific designer, and designers less allegiant to a specific brand, in an era where it might not make sense for anything to remain consistent for ten years anymore.

Style Icon — Nicki Minaj

In case you haven’t heard, Nicki Minaj  won Best Female Hip Hop Artist at the 2016 BET Awards, for the sixth consecutive time. She is insanely talented, yes, but she has also gotten here with her incredible work ethic. From Yo Gotti’s “5 Star Remix” in 2009 to Bebe Rexha’s “No Broken Hearts” last March, Nicki Minaj has done sixty-five official singles, as a featured artist and on her own three chart-topping albums. She works every single year, and she wins every single year.

It is said that music and fashion go together, that people who are strong in one will also be inclined toward the other. We have seen this with Kanye West, Rihanna, Gwen Stefani, Lady Gaga, and so on, and Nicki Minaj is no exception. She looks completely different from one day to the next, but her style does have some ongoing themes: top and skirt sets, gladiator sandals, thigh-high boots, Chanel handbags, and Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, to name a few. Here are some of her best looks from the past year.Nicki Minaj Alice + Olivia

TOP AND SKIRT SETS: Of all the celebrities who have embraced this trend, Nicki Minaj may have done so the most. Alice + Olivia top and skirt. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki Minaj Chanel 2

This top and skirt set almost looks demure…almost. Her pointy pumps, quilted handbag, and even her hair match the tone of this outfit. Chanel bag. At the Cromwell in Las Vegas. (photo: Getty Images)
Nicki Minaj Moschino

Matching does not have to mean boring. At the Moschino boutique in the Dubai Mall, Nicki picked out a color block top and skirt ensemble, even adding a quilted purse and hat. But wait…on Instagram, she wrote “Disregard the hat. Took it off before I left the store.” Good. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki_Alexander McQueen

GLADIATOR SANDALS: The most demure color, in the most daring shape. Alexander McQueen top and skirt. Christian Louboutin shoes. Chanel handbag. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki Minaj Christian Louboutin

Petite girls can always, always pull off gladiator sandals. Christian Louboutin shoes. Appearing on Ellen. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki Minaj Bally

THIGH-HIGH BOOTS: Most outfits have a focal point, one item designed to capture attention. With Nicki Minaj, everything stands out. Which is better, in my opinion. Bally shoes. At the Marc Jacobs Fall 2015 presentation. (photo: Getty Images)
Nicki_Balmain

These leather boots are the perfect complement to the black velvet piping of her dress. Balmain dress. Alexander McQueen boots. Appearing on Saturday Night Live. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki Minaj Chanel

CHANEL HANDBAGS. “Got a black card and let Saks have it, these Chanel bags is a bad habit.” — “Feeling Myself”. In her case it’s a bad habit that looks very, very good. Chanel bag. At a Portland Trail Blazers game with Meek Mill. (photo: fashionbombdaily.com)

Nicki_Balenciaga

A dress this chic could only be paired with a quilted Chanel purse. Balenciaga dress. Christian Louboutin pumps. Chanel bag. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki_Fashion Nova

A Chanel bag is the perfect addition to this ladylike look. Fashion Nova dress. Christian Louboutin pumps. Chanel handbag. At 1 OAK in Los Angeles. (photo: AKM-GSI)

Nicki Minaj Alexander McQueen 2

Pairing the rich textures of brocade and quilting at Bliss Nightclub in Washington, D.C. Alexander McQueen dress. Chanel bag. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Nicki Minaj Giuseppe Zanotti 2

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI SHOES: “Of course bitches gonna hate on my Giuseppe wedge.” — “Wamables”. Envy? Yes. But dislike? Certainly not. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Giuseppe Zanotti

(photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Giuseppe Zanotti 5

(photo: GG/FameFlynet Pictures)

Nicki Minaj Giuseppe Zanotti 4

These may have been the wedges in question… (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Giuseppe Zanotti 3

She had these sneakers customized. (photo: Frederike Helwig)

Nicki Minaj and Giuseppe Zanotti

With Giuseppe Zanotti himself at his New York boutique. If anyone deserves to hang out with him, it’s her. (photo: Ben Hider)

Nicki Minaj

AND MORE: In a mesh bodycon dress, Nicki Minaj makes the Alexander Wang aesthetic her own at the brand’s Spring 2016 presentation. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Michael Costello

A floor-length, gilded look at the 2015 AMAs. Michael Costello gown. Christian Louboutin shoes. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Rene Caovilla

Slaying the crop top trend with origami pleats at the 2015 BET Awards. Rene Caovilla shoes. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Givenchy

Donning a complete Givenchy ensemble for their Spring 2016 presentation. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Tom Ford

Taking fringe to another level at the 2015 Grammy Awards. Tom Ford gown and shoes. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj Stella McCartney

Appearing on Late Night with Jimmy Fallon in a dreamy draped dress of teal and midnight blue. Stella McCartney dress. (photo: Getty Images)

Nicki Minaj 2

Wearing a classic red dress for her brother Jelani’s wedding. Pictured here with her mother, Carol. (photo: Instagram.com/nickiminaj)

Holiday Style — The Fourth of July

Fourth of July

Happy Fourth of July everybody! I was in Noho when I spotted the above American Apparel, because it’s hard to miss. One doesn’t have to so much as enter to see camis, bustiers, tank tops, crop tops, tees, leggings, baseball caps, swimwear, and towels emblazoned with the American flag. I think it’s pretty boring to observe a holiday without dressing for it — I personally dress up for Valentine’s Day, Saint Patrick’s Day, the Fourth of July, Halloween, and Christmas — so I appreciate this store’s spirit. That said, I think there is a more creative way to dress for the Fourth, and that is the Three-Color Rule: wear red, white, and blue, to the exclusion of other colors.

 

Fourth of July 4

Bustier, XOXO; jeans, Boom Boom; sunglasses, St. Mark’s Place; belt, Apt. 9

Mars Jacket      Pier One Ring

Vintage cropped jacket; Pier 1 ring

The difference between wearing red, white, and blue versus wearing the American flag is like the difference between showing and telling. The flag motif means THE FOURTH OF JULY; whoever buys that merchandise at American Apparel might only want to wear it once a year, perhaps pulling it out of the closet on an election day. With the Three-Color Rule, you can wear items that would each make sense any other day of the year, while still effectively communicating “Fourth of July” with their particular combination. You can stand apart. Your favored juxtaposition might not be blue on the left, red on the right, and white in between. Your print of choice might not be stars, or even stripes. Your shirt will look different from the next person’s. It’s the perfect way to make the holiday your own!

Fourth of July 3    Fourth of July 2

Dress, Gap; headband, Forever 21; belt, Charter Club; lips purse, Far Nine

Macy's Pearl Necklace    Linea Paolo

Necklace, Macy’s private label; chunky sandals, Paolo

Sophie Watch 2   Claire's ring

Sophie watch; Claire’s ring

And the best part is, you don’t have to buy anything new…and even if you don’t have a single bright red or dark blue item in your closet, whatever you buy, you can wear again and again.

Fourth of July 5

Lux cami; Forever 21 skirt and sash

Fourth of July 6   Forever 21 Bracelet 2

Forever 21 bow pumps; Forever 21 bracelet

Vintage Handbag    Vintage Handbag 2

Vintage handbag

Fourth of July 7

Abercrombie & Fitch cropped sweater; Lauren Ralph Lauren blazer; H&M jeans; Nine West newsboy cap

Vintage brooch    Forever 21 Ring

Vintage brooch; Forever 21 ring

Fourth of July 9

Top, Forever 21; skirt, American Apparel (see, they’re not all bad!); headband, Anna Belen; handbag, Gucci

Betty Boop Watch   Betty Boop Watch 2

Watch, Betty Boop

 

TBT — 2013

Brette Portrait

Top, A. Byer; skirt, Forever 21; shoes, Alba; necklace, Forever 21; “happy” necklace, Forever 21; bracelet, a gift from my grandmother Sylvia; vintage watch; black flower ring, Folk Art Gallery; lips ring, Claire’s; heart ring, street fair on Broadway; headband, Anna Belen; belt, Forever 21; handbag, H&M.

It’s been a month and a half since I graduated from NYU, and I am left with so many wonderful memories. One great experience was doing a photo shoot with a fellow student for his class project. The prompt was to create a “portrait” of a person, that is, to capture her or his everyday life. I had met Jordan in 2012, when we both lived in the same freshman residence hall. In Fall 2013, when we were sophomores, he approached me about the project and asked me to come up with a few outfits and make a list of places I go to on a typical day. The first places that came to mind were the NYU library, Washington Square Park, and Forever 21. We shot at and around the Forever 21 store in Soho.

Ages 19 and 20 were a fun, carefree, and experimental time for me stylewise. I was inspired to look girlier than ever before, hunting down bow and flower headbands specifically and trying both blush and white eyeliner for the first time. The shoes were of the “heel-less wedge” variety, inspired by Noritaka Tatehana. It’s rare for me to wear more than one necklace at a time, but I decided to add my “Happy” necklace to express how happy I was with my new life in New York.

Brette Portrait 2

I generally wear two or three main colors in an outfit, and I love to blend from one shade to another in the same color family. I snapped a skinny belt at the waistband to differentiate between the top and the skirt, and because I love bows.

Brette Portrait 3

Browsing in Forever 21. I actually didn’t buy anything. There was a pair of black skinny jeans with small words in white cursive scrawled up and down the legs, that I was thinking about getting but didn’t get. Since I can still visualize them perfectly three years later, I probably should have gotten them.

Of course as I have gotten older, I have been wearing work-appropriate outfits more often than not. I don’t think there is a single part of this outfit that I would wear to work! Okay…maybe the bracelet, watch, and handbag…but not at the same time. The professional world is exciting and fulfilling, but one’s life outside the office is important too. So when I’m not at work, I like having the nerve to wear whatever I want.

Photos by Jordan Star

Love

Love Wins 3

“Looking for Love” tank, Forever 21; pumps, INC

On June 26, 2015, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in Obergefell v. Hodges that the denial of marriage licenses to same-sex couples in any state, and the refusal of a state to recognize marriages legally performed elsewhere, is unconstitutional. The Fourteenth Amendment provides that no state deny any of its residents “the equal protection of the laws”. Other cases that came down to the Fourteenth Amendment include Roe v. Wade (1973) and Brown v. Board of Education (1954).

Love Wins 5

“Love” ring, The Market NYC; Celtic wedding ring, found on the floor at Forever 21

Love Wins 6

“Kiss” ring, Forever 21

Love Wins 4

Purse, sewn by me 

Love Wins

The sculptor, Robert Indiana

Obergefell v. Hodges, which we affectionately refer to as “Love Wins”, was a case especially significant to me as a bisexual woman. In June 2015, I was 22. In Fall 2005, when I first thought I might be gay, I was 12. Everyone thinks of the San Francisco Bay Area as a liberal place, but there was a palpable current of homophobia at my middle school and, later, at my high school. The word “gay” was frequently used as an insult, and I got the sense that if one was openly gay there, one would not be accepted. I hung out with two main groups of friends in middle school, all female, and let’s just say that they thought lesbians were creepy. The terms “lesbo” and “lezzy” were used. Okay, only three of my friends said as much, but no one had the nerve to argue with them. Not even me. I was paranoid that someone, somehow, would figure me out. I felt certain that I would spend the rest of my life feeling bicurious inside, and simply never acting on it.

Love Wins skirt

Kiss print skirt, Forever 21

The legality of same-sex marriage across the country is about more than marriage, more than even the legal advantages of being a spouse versus a partner. This is about recognizing that although homosexuality and bisexuality are uncommon compared to heterosexuality, they are not expressions of deviance. This is about kids going to school and thinking that the homophobic people are the weird ones, not the LGBT individuals. And this is about making the United States an environment where everyone can work up the courage to find love.

       Love Earrings                        Love Wins -- Happy

“Love” earrings, Forever 21             “Happy” necklace, Forever 21

Flowery at the Macy’s Flower Show

20160323_192757

The Macy’s flagship in Herald Square is an iconic landmark for Manhattan and the fashion industry alike, going strong since 1901. Whether for work trips or pure shopping, I love visiting the store; large department stores mesmerize me because they are like worlds unto themselves. Every spring this flagship has a beautiful tradition — the Macy’s Flower Show! I went in after my internship to see the gorgeous exhibit, themed America the Beautiful, and dressed in head-to-toe flowers for the occasion.

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A living, photosynthesizing American Flag

20160323_193814      20160323_193829

                             Red                                                                      White

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And blue, with dainty butterflies for stars  

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                                            Exhibit creator Jessy Wolvek of Fleurs NYC

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The Pacific Northwest Wonderland. Being from California, I approve of the description. The Golden Gate Bridge was most scenic from the middle of the escalator! 

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The Vast Southwest, replete with tall cacti and rust-colored flowers

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The Majestic Rockies. It was a nice surprise to see flowers suspended from the ceiling!

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The Midwest Fruited Plains, with sunny flowers, rolling hills, and a windmill 

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Tiny lilac and pink flowers gathered together beside the escalators to escort customers to the second floor 

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Do Not Touch! Sharp and striking cacti keep company with a majestic agave.

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 An American Flag close-up in a frame, made entirely of flowers

Macy’s has a well-earned reputation for window displays, and they went all out for the flower show.

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Northeast Sound, with a lush floral lighthouse and sailboats riding the petaled waves

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The Golden Gate Bridge and a forest of giant redwoods

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The Southwestern window, with towering red rocks, cacti, succulents, and a cow skull 

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A gated garden with an angelic fountain

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Flower-bearing doggies in the window

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Me wearing the sort of thing one ought to wear to a flower show. Blouse, E.A.G. Collection; skirt with sash, Forever 21; black bracelet from my grandmother Sylvia; headband by Anna Belén

Elle for Kohls' shoes    Forever 21 earrings 2   Forever 21 necklace 2

Elle for Kohl’s shoes; Forever 21 earrings and necklace

   Forever 21 Bracelet  Forever 21 Flower Ring   Claire's ring 3

Forever 21  bracelet and rings; Claire’s ring

Black Totes 2

Chateau handbag

Spring Wishlist — Pastels

Spring has sprung, and I couldn’t be happier. There’s something so carefree about being outside without a jacket, walking because it’s sunny and not because you have a scheduled obligation to hurry to, and seeing all the flowers come out of hiding. Spring is also a beautiful time for fashion, a chance to put away the coat and boots you’ve had to wear practically every day and warm up to complete style freedom. For me, this means light, cheerful pastel colors, soft flourishes, and nature-inspired motifs. Pantone’s designated Colors of the Year are Rose Quartz and Serenity, and there’s no better season to wear them!

Some people think pastel colors are okay in small doses, but they could never wear an outfit composed entirely of pastels. Yet I think head-to-toe pastel ensembles are the most fun, and it’s completely possible to dress this way without looking like the Easter Bunny. The trick is to balance your pinks with blues and to let your palest blush pieces segue into nudes and creams. Drawing from 400 boutiques around the world, Farfetch is my go-to place to find pieces that are sophisticated and stand out — the best combination for a tricky trend.

 

 

Outfit 1 Take 2                                         Outfit 2 Take 2

 

Look 1 — Spring Sophisticate       Look 2 — Pastel’s Wild Side

Dorothee Schumacher blouse; Marni macramé skirt;  Sophia Webster ballet flats;  Edie Parker Flavia clutch

Rochas top; Balmain skirt; N°21 sandals; Edie Parker Jean clutch

Outfit 3 Take 2              Outfit 4 Take 2

Look 3 — Super Sweet                             Look 4 — Mixed Prints

Ryan Lo top; P.A.R.O.S.H. skirt; Saint Laurent  Candy 80 sandals; Olympia Le-Tan My Melody clutch

Simone Rocha top; Carven skirt; Red Valentino slingbacks; Olympia Le- Tan birds book clutch

Outfit 5   Outfit 6

Look 5 — Rich Texture                        Look 6 — Lines that Pop

N 21 tank; J.W. Anderson jacket;  Twin-Set trousers; Salvatore Ferragamo  pumps;  Maison Michel Bibi Yoko hat; Burberry Nova Check bucket bag

Vivetta Mara shirt; Dorothee Schumacher trousers;  Chloe Gosselin Lobelia booties; Salvatore  Ferragamo Vara clutch

Outfit 7 Outfit 8 Take 3

Look 7 — Laid-Back Pretty               Look 8 — The Dark Side

Cédric Charlier camisole; Erika Cavallini Hana jacket; Ermanno Scervino shorts;  Dolce & Gabbana booties; Night Market necklace;  Olympia Le-Tan Alice Notebook clutch

Ermanno Scervino coat; Roberto Cavalli booties; Chanel vintage clip-on earrings; 3.1 Phillip Lim Pashli satchel

Outfit 9  Outfit 10 Take 2

Look 9 — Chic Ballerina                Look 10 — Dramatic Shape

Rochas ballerina print dress; Brunello Cucinelli cardigan; Dolce & Gabbana Vally slippers;  Céline vintage faux pearl bracelet; Tory Burch watercolor print clutch

Simone Rocha scuba dress; Giamba butterfly print stilettos; Marc by Marc Jacobs cabochon ring; Erika Cavallini brooch; Serpui clutch

Love This Brand — Laura Ciccarello Collection

Laura Ciccarello Logo

Laura Ciccarello has spent all of her life immersed in art and fashion. Growing up in Virginia with her brother and parents, her creativity was strongly encouraged. As a child she drew and painted constantly, and her family would often sit and draw together. Her obsession with gemstones was also fueled by her upbringing. Some of her favorite earliest memories are of digging through her mother’s jewelry box and wearing the jewelry – and not just for dress-up. “My mother said I could wear whatever I wanted,” she recalls, “and she had a collection of fine jewelry. So when I was in kindergarten, I wore chunky sparkly necklaces to school. I probably looked like a nut job, but I was happy.” She grew up to sell her oil paintings as a young teenager, win an international design competition by The Sak Company, complete pre-college at Pratt and college at FIT, design for multiple brands including Fernando Sanchez, provide fashion consulting services to major retailers, and found the company Red Lipstick Inc., under which she launched her eponymous brand Laura Ciccarello. Her creative origins continue to inspire the “glamorous yet organic” aesthetic of Laura Ciccarello Collection.

Laura Ciccarello Lookbook

Lookbook shot at a penthouse overlooking Central Park; model wearing Big Blingy Starry Night scarf

Laura Ciccarello Collection started with scarves, then extended to handbags. The product category Laura is most excited about right now is jewelry, which launched at the Accessories Circuit trade show just this fall. Every piece in her Metal Lace and Gemstone Jewelry collections is made of silver or gold, with the latter bearing evidence of her childhood gem fascination. She sees her jewelry as a bridge between costume and fine jewelry, two of her favorite things. Each piece is handmade in Manhattan’s Diamond District. Manufacturing close to home is challenging because the production landscape is dominated by ready-to-wear and it can be hard to find people who identify more with stones than cloth. “It would be cheaper to make the jewelry somewhere else,” Laura says, “but I like to do things the better way. New York is higher quality. Overseas uses ‘flash’ plating that wears off in two months and we use ‘heavy plating.’”.

 

Laura Ciccarello Lace 4      Laura Ciccarello Lace 6   Laura Ciccarello Lace 5    Laura Ciccarello Lace 3

Silver lace filigree ring, $93; La Ventana silver lace ring, $180; La Ventana gold lace ring, $180; Gold lace filigree ring, $93

Laura’s design process is serendipitous but clearly effective. “The process of creating a collection starts with me going out all the time and getting a lot of random ideas from what I see. The idea starts out with a sketch, and then I do more sketches, maybe change a few things, before doing the painting. Then I infuse photos I take with Photoshop and start to digitally print the fabric.” This process caters to our ever more technology-focused world with fabulous and luxurious results. With names like Queen of Everything and Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends, the five scarf collections are full of motif surprises. These include Marilyn Monroe, Karl Lagerfeld, and even handcuffs, which have a subliminal feel when infused over her colorful abstract paintings.

Laura Ciccarello Tied Up and Painted    Laura Ciccarello Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends    Laura Ciccarello Karate Karl 2

Tied Up and Painted handbag; Diamonds Are More Than My Best Friends scarf; Karate Karl handbag

“My perfect situation would be designing all day and making thousands of SKUs,” Laura says, “but that’s not the reality.” As a business owner, Laura spends much of her time on manufacturing and logistics in addition to design. When designing a collection, she chooses the best thirty or forty ideas to produce. The scarves and bags are manufactured in India and China, but Laura is seeing an industry shift to South American manufacturing, thanks to the Trans-Pacific Partnership and a growing workforce that is becoming more educated in patternmaking and manufacturing. Fashion has a reputation as one of the world’s fastest-moving industries, where everyone discusses Fall when it’s spring outside and work on a collection must begin a full year in advance. This is not an issue for Laura. “I am hyper-decisive,” she says, “so I take less time than average to complete a collection. I always like to be ahead of the curve, so I exceed my deadlines.”

Laura Ciccarello Rock Royalty     Laura Ciccarello Stone Roses

Crowned Royal scarf; Stone Roses scarf

In a volatile industry where a large number of brands are selling similar products to similar markets, Laura Ciccarello Collection stands out. “Individuality is the biggest trend that no one’s talking about. The woman wearing my clothes values individuality above all else. She wants something bold, something beautiful, not just trendy,” Laura says. “It’s about standing out, doing something different, and having a quality product. This matters more than artificial marketing and grey-area-press. Press and marketing are making major changes right now. The reality few are talking about is you don’t sell from publications anymore, you sell to people.”

Laura Ciccarello 3

Laura herself wearing the Kryptonite scarf

Laura Ciccarello Collection has received attention from many high-profile sources, like Neiman Marcus and Miss Universe. Laura tells me that her PR success comes from networking. “I like to go out, go to events, go to parties, and I meet so many people,” she says. “You need to be out and present. I have seen people pass up big opportunities because they stayed at home all the time. Home is a very comfortable place, but as a designer you’ve got to put yourself out there.” But she is quick to note that networking comes with a caveat. “My favorite show is VH1’s Behind the Music,” she tells me. “I don’t go crazy like the celebrities in Behind the Music. I have fun but I keep my priorities straight. I always want to be 100 percent on point. If I were swinging from a chandelier, I would be sending a business email from my phone with the other hand.” That might be the best advice I’ve ever heard.

Laura Ciccarello 4    Laura Ciccarello 2

Laura at a studio wearing the Fool’s Gold scarf and handbag; a chandelier from Laura’s Instagram

Laura Ciccarello Collection has a website and a presence on Facebook and Instagram, but Laura’s ambitions for the brand center around wholesale. As someone with extensive experience designing for department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, and The Home Shopping Network, pitching her own brand to high-end retail is a natural progression. She is excited about expanding into a new product category and “going outside my design comfort zone.” Can’t wait to see the results!

Laura Ciccarello Malificent   Laura Ciccarello Big Blingy Starry Night    Laura Ciccarello Queen of the Aztec

Malificent handbag; Big Blingy Starry Night handbag; Queen of the Aztec handbag