Bring Fashion Week to Work

nyfw-calendar-2

New York Fashion Week kicked off yesterday and the shows are in full swing. Zac Posen has often said that Fashion Week is “fashion-tainment”. He started saying that several years ago. Runway shows these days cater as much to consumers as they do to the press. Brands like Tom Ford and Burberry are transitioning from the traditional fashion calendar (you know, show fall clothes in spring and spring clothes in fall) to a “see now, buy now” schedule in which season-appropriate collections hit stores days after the show. Brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Givenchy have given consumers the opportunity to purchase tickets to their shows. Many shows are live-streamed to internet users worldwide. Yet the most obvious and practical consequence of prioritizing the consumer can be seen in the designs themselves. Fashion Week will always have strange cutouts and counterintuitive layering, but more often than not the runway looks are perfectly wearable in day-to-day life. Even at work.

Yes, designers are  sending office-appropriate outfits down the runway. But these are not your average pantsuits. Here are 10 brands that present professional attire at its very best.

runway-to-office-tse-6

TSE — This monochrome white outfit is sharp as can be, with an eyecatching button in compliance with every dress code.

Adeam RTW Spring 2017
Adeam

A white button-down always works. The sophisticated color palette and conservative shape make these dress pants desk-ready.

Camilla and Marc RTW Spring 2017

CAMILLA AND MARC — Godet pleats and raised seams set this classic black dress apart.

Escada RTW Spring 2017
Escada

A cowl neck and skinny sash add definition to a conservative white dress.

M Missoni RTW Spring 2017
M Missoni

With geometric pops of color, this coat will make the outfit. Just add pants!

Kendall + Kylie RTW Spring 2017
Kendall + Kylie

It’s hard to go wrong with a matching top and skirt, and the peplum and trumpet flares dress them up. Pull up the shoulders and you have a chic boat neck.

Jeffrey Dodd RTW Spring 2017
Jeffrey Dodd

A white button-down with a black pencil skirt will be welcome at any workplace. Button up the top and you’re good to go.

Kobi Halperin RTW Spring 2017
Kobi Halperin

This might seem like just another black dress at first, but with a closer look, the Swiss dots bring it to life.

Christina Economou RTW Spring 2017
Christina Economou

A high-necked shell and dress pants, with a kick.

Rejina Pyo RTW Spring 2017
Rejina Pyo

A pale blue button-down is a refreshing substitute for white. The paper bag waist takes these black trousers to another level.

Photo credits: wwd.com

Fashion Week Newcomers

Rosario Dawson

For a luxury clothing brand, showing at a major Fashion Week is the ultimate mark of prestige. Below are six lines that made their New York Fashion Week debuts this fall.

Monse Try Again 3    Monse Try Again   Monse Try Again 2

Monse

Monse was started by two prominent people from the Oscar de la Renta team: studio director Laura Kim and principal designer Feranando Garcia.

Phelan Try Again 2    Phelan Try Again

 Phelan

Phelan is a progressive line founded by Amanda Phelan, who was inspired by light, shadow, and memory. A performance by contemporary dance company Vim Vigor kicked off the show.

Studio 189

Studio 189 was founded by Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah and is headquartered in Ghana. The concept behind the line is to “champion African and African-inspired content through an artisan-produced collection.”

 

Rosario Dawson     Designer Abrima Erwiah

Brandon Maxwell Try Again    Brandon Maxwell Try Again 3   Brandon Maxwell Try Again 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brandon Maxwell

Founder Brandon Maxwell is a celebrity stylist, known especially for styling Lady Gaga’s classic, understated look of late. Despite Maxwell’s lack of design training, the line was superbly cut and constructed.

Cadet Try Again    Cadet Try Again 3    Cadet Try Again 2

      Cadet

Designers Raul Arevalo and Brad Schmidt were finalists of the 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition. They presented two menswear collections last year before making their womenswear debut this season.

Clear by Kai Milla Try Again 3    Clear by Kai Milla Try Again 2   Clear by Kai Milla Try Again

Clear by Kai Milla

Designer Kai Milla presented an eponymous collection in 2010. This season Milla debuted a new line, Clear.

Credits:

Bringheli, Lorenzo — Rosario Dawson photo

Chinsee, George — Monse photos

Eichner, Steve — Studio 189 photos

Giannoni, Giovanni — Cadet photos

Iannaccone — Clear by Kai Milla photos, Phelan photos

Mitra, Robert — Brandon Maxwell photos

If I Could Buy the Entire Collection, I Would — Kate Spade

Kate Spade 21

With so many designers out there, it might seem unfair to pick one favorite. Sometimes the act of selecting a favorite can cast shadow on everything that isn’t the favorite, as if creating a stark contrast between what you like and what you don’t. Yet as anyone who has ever been asked what their favorite food is can attest, playing favorites is simply a part of human nature. So when I say that Kate Spade was my favorite collection from New York Fashion Week, I don’t mean that I disliked the other brands or that their shows had no merit. I just want to celebrate the Kate Spade aesthetic as a look I deeply identify with. The color palette (black, white, red), flowers, girly emphasis on dresses and skirts, and whimsical accessories made me very happy. Every brand has an ideal customer, and let’s just say the Kate Spade Girl and I would get along very well.

Kate Spade Try Again 7    Kate Spade Try Again 6    Kate Spade Try Again 8

Kate Spade Try Again 2   Kate Spade Try Again 5   Kate Spade Try Again 4

Kate Spade Try Again 3  Kate Spade Try Again 10   Kate Spade Try Again 9   Kate Spade Try Again

Of all the fashion categories, the handbag is my favorite because it allows the most freedom to be adventurous. Anything goes with handbags, and the right handbag is all it takes to make a safe outfit cool and interesting. Kate Spade’s focus on accessories is precisely why I have followed the brand for years.

Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016
Kate Spade RTW Spring 2016

 

 

 

 

 

 

WWD Credits: Full look photos by George Chinsee

Top photo: whatshaute.com

New York Fashion Week — September 10, 2015

Fashion Week goes by so fast! With 188 different collections and about 20-60 looks per show, there is so much to digest in a mere ten-day period. If you’re in college, think of it this way; on the busiest days, like Friday and Saturday, it was logistically possible to attend twelve shows in a single day. That’s about the same time commitment as six class sessions. Of course Fashion Week is not like a day of classes in any other respect, and few things thrill me more than photos from the latest shows popping up online at every minute. It’s just a lot to process in real time. Even so, I intend to continue to break down the Spring 2016 flurry by the daily unit, to ensure that I cover a diverse spectrum of lines and do them justice.

      

     

NYFW Street Style

September 10 was a day of many things, especially prints. As anyone who is old enough knows, Miranda Priestly would not be impressed by florals for spring. That is precisely why I think she would admire this particular spring for its geometry, color blocking, and renegade abstract fervor. Below are my favorite prints from Thursday, large and small, floral and otherwise.

JSong RTW Spring 2016
JSong RTW Spring 2016

A playful yet elaborate line drawing of Manhattan brings a character and a narrative to this otherwise simple dress. I’m already imagining what neighborhood the model will go to first and what crazy events will transpire when she gets there.

Ohne Title RTW Spring 2016
Ohne Titel RTW Spring 2016

The bright orange contrast, broad line widths, intricacy of the line composition, and sweeping swaths of background white set this chevron print apart.

Gant RTW Spring 2016
Gant RTW Spring 2016

No spring is complete without its blossoms. These spare, stark flowers have the gracefulness of an ink drawing.

Kempner RTW Spring 2016
Kempner RTW Spring 2016

Monochromatic color blocking is bold but a little expected. When the stripes flip sideways and zigzag furiously into compression, the effect is dizzying and captivating.

Desigual RTW Spring 2016
Desigual RTW Spring 2016

My favorite print of all! Peacocks and other lively creatures dance across what would otherwise be a basic, dare I say preppy, stripe, creating a new narrative with the vibrance and ambiguity of an abstract painting. If ever you hear someone say fashion isn’t art the way painting or music is, show them this dress.

Erin Fetherston RTW Spring 2016
Erin Fetherston RTW Spring 2016

This crochet print is geometric, no doubt, but without the harsh angles associated with the word. With a calming pale backdrop and thin, unassuming stripes, it gives the impression of a very tranquil sea.

Tess Giberson RTW Spring 2016

Tess Giberson

The distinctions are so muted that at first glance one might not even call this a print. Yet when one looks closely the rounded, artfully layered shapes emerge, like wispy clouds drifting through a twilight sky.

Model on the catwalk
Model on the catwalk

Pyer Moss

This collection centered decisively on American police brutality, using the abrasiveness of neck bands and seat belt hardware to capture an unforgiving society where every individual has to fend for him- or herself and the very people we are told will help us can turn and end our lives with nothing more than a feeble excuse. This print may be small, but its many bright colors and clustering at the top of the coat give it power.

Yuna Yang RTW Spring 2016

Yuna Yang

Large pink satin flowers are girlishly exuberant, yet kept grounded by a black backdrop.

Ulla Johnson RTW Spring 2016

Ulla Johnson

Far more beguiling than a bald-faced polka dot, this conversational print of tiny hearts complements the yoke neck and ruffled skirt.

WWD Credits: 

Street style photos, Liz Devine. Runway photos, Courtesy Photo. 

New York Fashion Week — September 9, 2015

Sarah Sophie Flicker and Debbie Harry at the Rachel Comey presentation in Red Hook, Brooklyn

Most everyone has a creative side, whether they are in a creative profession or not. I consider fashion buying a creative profession to some degree, but when I was in high school I engaged in the more obviously creative activities of sketching and sewing. My former boss was an investment banker and a commercial real estate broker before becoming a clothing designer. A family friend teaches calculus and physics and has released a series of studio albums as a singer and songwriter.

Brette Coat

A coat that I designed and sewed when I was 15

Even if we are all creative, it is not always understood where this creativity comes from. It’s tempting to say it simply “comes to you”, as if out of nowhere. Based on all of the poetry I have written while caffeinated, I think creativity is a product of an active, passionate state of mind. Yet sometimes we don’t give our environment enough credit. My final theory is that creativity comes from the convergence of an active and passionate mind and the right external stimulus, although remembering the exact source of our inspiration can be difficult considering all of the environmental stimuli we are exposed to at every minute.

Stimulation

The talented designers of New York Fashion Week tend to identify exactly where the inspiration for a given season’s collection came from, a degree of recollection that is an art form in itself. Below are some lines from Wednesday and their creative origins.

Big Sur

See By Chloé RTW Spring 2016

See by Chloé

Clare Waight Keller was inspired by Big Sur, California.

Yes Rasta

TSE RTW Spring 2016

TSE

Tina Lutz was inspired by Jamaica and dancehall culture, specifically the books “Dancehall: The Story of Jamaican Dancehall Culture” by Beth Lesser and “Yes Rasta” by Patrick Cariou (pictured above). 

Peter Beard Iman

Tamara Mellon RTW Spring 2016
Tamara Mellon RTW Spring 2016

Tamara Mellon was inspired by the concept of a tribal, gypsy warrior woman; Peter Beard photography (his photo of Iman pictured above); African carved wood sculptures; and Maasai craftsmanship.

The Circus

M Missoni RTW Spring 2016
M Missoni RTW Spring 2016

Angela Missoni was inspired by the circus.

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 01: Sunset over Manhattan on Day Eight of the 2014 US Open at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center on September 1, 2014 in the Flushing neighborhood of the Queens borough of New York City. (Photo by Julian Finney/Getty Images)

Hellessy RTW Spring 2016
Hellessy RTW Spring 2016

Sylvie Millstein was inspired by the view of the sunset from a city rooftop.
Robert Irwin

Lisa Perry New York RTW Spring Summer 2016 September 2015
Lisa Perry New York RTW Spring Summer 2016 September 2015

      Lisa Perry was inspired by the Robert Irwin installation “Who’s Afraid of Red, Yellow, and Blue?”

Haute Couture

Model
Model

À Moi

Alejandra Alonso Rojas was inspired by “the elevated sartorial traditions of the past” (Allende). Charles Worth haute couture gowns from the nineteenth century shown above.

Matisse

Model
Model

O’2nd

Minsoo Chung was inspired by the colors used by Gary Hume, the cut-outs of Henri Matisse (pictured above), and the shibori prints of Korea.

Warm 2

Warm RTW Spring 2016

Warm

Tracy Feith was inspired by his old line and Warm, the Nolita boutique for whom he designs. This meant giving beachy clothing a new sophistication.

Judith Plant

Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey was inspired by “the degradation of fabrics” and the essay “The Circle Is Gathering” by Judith Plant, pictured above (Garced).

Happy NYFW!

Photo Credits:

(Sarah Sophie Flicker and Debbie Harry) — Steve Eichner    (Designer presentations) — WWD Courtesy Photo

(blurry lights) — allposters.com   (Big Sur) — bigsurcalifornia.com      (Yes Rasta) — betweenthebooks.com

(Peter Beard photography) — fashiontrendsdaily.com    (circus) — ian-darragh.com   (sunset) — huffingtonpost.com

(Irwin installation) — pacegallery.com    (Charles Worth gowns) — thefashionhistorian.com

(Matisse cut-outs) — interiordesign.net    (Warm boutique) — whatwelikenyc.com    (Judith Plant) — innserendipity.com

New York Fashion Week — September 8, 2015

Fashion Week

There are two issues with referring to Fashion Week:

  1. There are so many different fashion weeks, from New York to Paris to Prague to Hong Kong, that it sounds a little egotistical for a New Yorker to say “Fashion Week” for New York when they know that “Milan Fashion Week” is going to come out of their mouth when the time comes.
  2. New York Fashion Week lasts longer than a week.

New York Fashion Week

There have been billboards in Manhattan for awhile advertising the first day of NYFW as September 10. This is false advertising. Ten designers presented collections on the 8th, and twenty-five presented on the 9th! And I am going to do my due diligence and include these collections on Blissful Style.  I would say the early bird gets the worm, but I’m more of a worms-for-all kind of person. Either way, it works.

Sonia Sonia Rykiel Logo Escada Logo    Tomas Maier Logo   Zac Posen Logo

CF. Goldman Logo  Red Valentino Logo

Trina Turk Logo 10 Crosby Derek Lam Logo    Nili Lotan Logo

With the exception of Zac Zac Posen’s electrically lit little black dress, there weren’t any looks on Tuesday that I would consider avant-garde.

Zac by Zac Posen Show

Yet I think runway shows can still inspire the fashion-conscious to be more adventurous, precisely because they are so wearable. There is a huge difference between what is wearable and the outfits we put on every day, and the former group is larger. We all have shapes, cuts, and colors we think we “don’t like” or “can’t wear”. We are like characters in a book or personal brands, and we all have a deep, intangible sense of who we are, what our look is, and how our look fits into our identity. Tangibly, this can show up as looking the same every day.

Coca Cola Logo

“My look is dramatic: monochrome red with just a touch of white to make it pop.” 

I’m guilty of this. For me, I have three roadblocks in my path to a more adventurous sense of style: femininity, formality, and color. By femininity, I mean that I always have to look super-feminine in a dress or skirt and heels. By formality, I mean that it doesn’t take much to make me feel underdressed. By color, I mean that most of my wardrobe is black, white, or red.

Black Rose  White Rose   Red Rose

If I thought I had no style, I wouldn’t be writing a fashion blog. I’m not saying that nobody is ever truly stylish. I just think that there is always room to grow and evolve in fashion. There are always new looks to try, new fears to conquer, new dilemmas or identities to create. Below are excerpts from Tuesday’s shows. On the left are the looks I would automatically reach for, and on the right are the outfits that are out of my comfort zone, that I should try.

Sonia Rykiel 2   Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Sonia Rykiel

I live for statement accessories, hearts, and dresses. I need to conquer my fear of being too casual in denim-on-denim. 

Escada 2   Escada

Escada

I am petite at 5′ 4″, so most of my dresses and skirts hit above the knee. I need to overcome my fear of longer lengths. 

Tomas Maier  Tomas Maier 2

Tomas Maier

I feel most alluring in a fitted look, and can be guilty of “dressing to attract”. One can still be beautiful and impressive in a looser silhouette!

Zac Zac Posen 2  Zac Zac Posen

Zac Zac Posen

I go wild for dresses and pleats! I fear the informality of shorts, but shorts can look dressy in the right fabric and pattern.

Protagonist 2  Protagonist RTW Spring 2016

Protagonist

I feel feminine in a little black dress. But a pantsuit as exquisite as this one looks feminine too. 

CF Goldman RTW Spring 2016.  CF Goldman RTW Spring 2016.

CF. Goldman

A short skirt has an obvious appeal, but a maxi dress with a slit is sexy and mysterious. 

Trina Turk RTW Spring 2016.  Trina Turk RTW Spring 2016.

Trina Turk

I think it’s fun to match, and I feel sophisticated in black, white, and red. I should try more unusual color combinations. 

Derek Lam 10 Crosby RTW Spring 2016  Derek Lam 10 Crosby RTW Spring 2016

10 Crosby Derek Lam 

I appreciate feminine details like tiers and ruffles. With a keyhole neckline and button details, shorts and a sweater can look feminine too. 

Nili Lotan RTW Spring 2016  Nili Lotan RTW Spring 2016

Nili Lotan

As a thin person, I tend to stay streamlined. But with the right neckline and leg slits, a loose dress hardly hides the body. 

Happy (New York) Fashion Week! More days to come!